Voyaging Into the Keralan Backwaters

Our bathroom seems to have a small garden in it, and it's host to a small frog. This would be startling in a normal hotel, but it's wonderful here: we're in Alleppey, in the Keralan tropics, and our bathroom has no roof. The Gowri Residence is more of a collection of small varied huts made of brick and thatch, though there are some rooms in the main heritage home. Our next door neighbors' room is unusual... it's a treehouse. We're a bit envious of that one.

Here we met the only other honeymooning couple so far on our trip. I can understand why, as Alleppey and the Keralan backwaters in general are what you picture when you think typical "honeymoon." Here you can laze on boats, sipping on fresh juice, while drifting along the interconnected waterways under a canopy of palm trees. Locals are friendly and in no rush at all. Dozens of stunningly beautiful resorts line the banks shrouded in greenery, with rooms coming right up to the water's edge and an Ayurvedic massage available right there on the spot (hopefully gentler than Nick's experience!). Birds dart from tree to tree or stand perfectly still, the storks looking like statues until they suddenly fly to a new lilypad.

Today we embark on what's regarded as one of India's best experiences - a 22-hour overnight houseboat cruise through Alleppey's waterways. From what we saw on our sneak preview yesterday (a 3-hour canoe tour), some of these houseboats are true luxury. Some have cabins with A/C, interiors of rich, dark wood, huge glass window panes, multiple decks, full kitchens, hot showers. Others are more modest but still more than comfortable. We're hoping for a low-key boat and have opted for no A/C; seems extravagant and the weather really is pleasant this time of year.

The houseboats were once used throughout Kerala's backwaters for a more practical purpose: rice shipping. The style of barge was originally designed to carry rice from the paddys outwards, to locations of processing, packaging, and further shipping. As technology changed and more efficient shipping methods were used, the tradition of making barges started to become a thing of the past. Fortunately, someone(s) realized that Alleppey could be a real tourist gem, and transformed the entire experience to cater to tourists. The houseboats were either retrofitted or newly built and is now a huge part of the local economy.

I think Lonely Planet sited 3,500 boats in Alleppey alone, and counting. And I believe it. As we floated quietly and gently along the waterways yesterday in our little covered canoe, our guide/boatman pointed out many things along the way. There were some rice paddys, kingfishers, Ayurvedic resorts, and a 62-foot long racing boat that can hold 120 people. But he certainly didn't need to point out the houseboats - they were tethered all around us, at every turn and on every bank of the waterways, and some were actively cruising in the water (with loads of friendly faces inevitably grinning and exchanging the "hello fellow tourists" wave). We saw some monstrous luxury boats that could hold a large, rich Indian family or group of Western tourists (20-30 guests on some, we guessed). Some smaller ones built just for a couple, but still impressive.

We're not sure exactly what we're going to get but it's bound to be a good experience!